Fabric glossary

September 20, 2007 RENU

1. Accessories: Additional ornamentation to accompany garment. (Shoes, Jewelries etc.)

3. Alter: To change pattern so that it corresponds to body measurements.

4. Bandhani: A process of patterning cloth by tie-dyeing in which design is reserved on undyed cloth by tying sm spots very tightly with thread to protect them from dye. Especially popular in Rajasthan, Gujarat.

5. Bias: Any direction in fabric which does not exactly flow in direction of weft yarn (vertical yarns) or warp yarns (horizontal yarns) of a fabric. A true bias makes an angle of 45 degree across length & width of a fabric. Fabric cut on a bias has max stretch.

6. Buta: “a plant”. A floral motif, traditionally rendered as a flowering plant with a curling bud at top.
7. Chikan Kari: Embroidery in white cotton thread upon fine white cotton fabric, like, muslin. Several techniques in chikan-kar are known; Lucknow was a famous center of fine workmanship.
8. Choli: A short, bodice-like breast garment.

9. Contemporary: currently in vogue.
10. Cool/light Colours: Blue, Violet, Green. Have calm, restful effect. 11. Dhoti: Traditional dress for lower part of body, consisting of a piece of unstitched cloth draped over hips & legs.
12. Draping: Means to hang or to adorn the body form with loose fabric & to obtain a body fitted garment by using adequate sewing techniques. 13. Dupatta: Veil-cloth draped loosely around upper part of body.
14. Flannel: Soft-filled cotton twill brushed on 1side.

15. Fad: Short lived fashion, briefly & suddenly seen everywhere & just as suddenly vanish.

16. Fashion Forecast: To predict/foretell future fashion trend for a specific period of time.

17. Finish: Perfection with which garment / fabric is completed.
18. Frey: Threads which come out from fabric during handling.

19. Ghaghra: Skirt, usually with a great deal of flare. several triangular gored pieces stitched together.
20. Grain: Another word used for length wise (weft yarn) or cross-wise (warp yarn) threads of fabric.

21. Hand: ‘feel’ of a garment or cloth.
22. Hue: shades & degrees of color.

23. Jamdani: Fine cotton muslin with floral pattern brocaded in thick soft cotton. Dacca was a famous center for the production of finejamdani work.

24. Kurta: slightly loose-fitting garment for outer wear, often with a round neck, of knee-length or even longer, with side-slits at the hem & generally flared skirt.
25. Microfibre: Any fiber (usually man-made) that is finer than silk. This combines the benefits of the original fiber with a much softer hand & better drape.

26. Paijama: Trouser-like garment, worn on lower part of body alike by men & women. Literally, ‘leg-clothing’.
27. Phulkari: Literally, “flowered work,type of embroidery practiced by punjabi women worked in floss-silk upon coarse cotton cloth, in darning stitch over counted threads, being worked from back of fabric.

28. Polyester: man-made fiber, resists wrinkling as it is resilient. It is machine washable & dryable making it inexpensive to care for. It does not readily absorb moisture so can feel clammy & uncomfortable in warm weather. Because it does not retain moisture well it tends to retain static.

29. Pucker: To draw up into folds or wrinkles.

30. Rayon: fiber created by mixing plant cellulose & chemicals. It is thought of as a man-made fiber. It has the advg of breathability & absorbency, good draping qlty’s, ability to be dyed in brilliant colours, superior strength.

31. Sandwash: A finish to achieve sueded effect & soft hand.
Seam Line Is the line which indicates where seam shd be stitched.

32. Surface Decoration: Ornamenting surface of a fabric or garment (e.g. Embroidery etc.)

33. Taper: To decrease width gradually, bring it to an end point.
The Look: To portray a certain image. (The contemporary look i.e. the look of today. The look of the yester years)

34. Thread Count: Is no of warp & weft yarns in 1square-inch of a fabric (warp yarn x weft yarn per sq. inch)

35. Trend: Fashion is not static, they are constantly moving, their movement has a definite direction. The direction in which fashion moves is called fashion Trend.

36. Trim: To cut off ragged edges below seam line to prevent garment from being bulky & to give seam a neat finish.

37. Warm Colours: Red, Orange, Yellow, advancing in nature as seen by eyes these colors move closer thereby reducing size of an object. Warm colors are cheerful.
38. Warp: Yarns that run l.wise.

39. Wool: natural animal fiber. The ‘crimp’ of wool gives it resilience that allows it to resist & recover quickly from wrinkling & crushing. crimp also forms air space giving it excellent insulation against heat or cold making wool an excellent year round fabric. Wash it in cold water; do not pull or wring the garment when wet (it must be lifted & gently squeezed); roll garment in a towel to draw out moisture then lay out in its original shape to dry.

40. Woolens: This term also refers to a ‘spinning process. The wool fibers are not uniform. Most fabrics made in this method are relatively loose and you can see the short end fibers rising from the surface.

100% Wool: Refers to an all-wool fabric which may contain different grades of wool.

Worsted Wool: This term refers to a ‘spinning’ process. The wool fibers are combed and only the longer fibers are used. The strands are combined and doubled over themselves with a twist. Worsted wools are characteristically smooth, have an even texture, with a relatively high twist.

41. Zari: Metallic thread twisted over cotton or silk for brocading.

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